I gotta '91 Plymouth Laser, 1.8L, 5 Speed.

I hacked my original MAF awhile back, I took the honey comb completely off, and it ran like shit.

I replaced it with a speaker cover, the ones with all those holes, and it ran back to normal.

Since I didn't like it, and I wanted the original, stock MAF, I swapped the MAF from a '91 Galant GS, Auto Tranny, 4G63 2.0L motor. Mind you, the MAF from the Galant was completely stock, nothing was tampered with.

I put it on, connected it, and was done. When I turned the car on, it was fine. No Check Engine or anything.

My cars had a Suspended Registration for about.. 2/3 months now, so it doesn't get driven much. And since it's sitting, I take the positive battery cable off the battery so the battery doesn't drain. Mind now, it's been disconnected for 2/3 months, and only gets connected when I take it out, and after I've taken it out, it gets disconnected again.

Now, if I remember, removing the battery cable, resets the ECU right?

Tonight, I take it out for a bite to eat, and it starts, and everything, but after awhile, I get a Check Engine, and it doesn't go away. And it takes about.. 10 minutes from my house to eat and back, and still it doesn't shut off. So that's 20 minutes the Check Engine has been on.

When I got home tonight, and I was pulling into the driveway, pulling into the garage, I'm in 1st gear, about to roll in, the car idle drops, and almost shuts off as if I didn't balance the clutch, but I know I did.

Also, when I drove, and went from stops, when I start at first, and I'm building speed, the car seems like, it struggles to accelerate or something. But when I move and press down on the gas and it goes fast, it doesn't struggle.

Seems like it has problems at low speeds/building speed?

What's the problem for the Check Engine, and the struggle to accelerate? Could it be me swapping the MAF, or cause the ECU keeps getting reset?

Need help please.

Thanks!

Could be a combination of both of the disconnecting the positive battery cable and the 4G63 MAF. First thing's first though, only disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnecting the positive battery cable could run the risk of blowing fuses, overheating wires, or frying the ECU.
I'd switch back to a stock 4G37 MAF. That should solve all your problems.
But, just to make sure, let's find out what that CEL is. Do you know how to check the CEL codes?

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I'm paying my car off Wednesday, so I've kept my battery connected now.

And I also put the stock air can back.

I do notice one thing, when I start my car now, the car like.. wants to shutoff. When I start it, it wants to shutoff, and I just leave it. Either it shuts off, or it stops and it's fine.

Today, I turned it on, and it wanted to shutoff, and I gave it gas, and it stopped.

Then when I took it around the block, it didn't seem so hesitant or struggle with acceleration.

That mean anything?

Oh yeah, and when I got back home, my idle was at like, 1,300 or 1,200.

Now, if I'm right, warmup idle is 1,500?

My car was already warmed up and it was idling at 1,200/1,300.

Why is that?

And I didn't touch the idle screw or anything.

When you swapped the MAFs, did you take off the negative battery cable to reset the ECU to "relearn" the stock MAF?
Sometimes the idle screw can back itself out of it's stock location. You'd have to let the car warm up completely and then adjust the idle with all the accessories off.

_________________
DSM: Defeating the purpose of financial management since 1989.

Contact:
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I don't remember if I removed any battery cables at all.

Whenever I take the battery cable off, it's always the positive, never the negative.

I think when I swapped MAFs, I just kept the battery cables connected, both of 'em.

Today, when I started the car too, it wanted to shutoff, and I revved it a little, and then it fine was. But then, my Idle started going up and down, and after like 2 mins, it was back to normal.

When I took it around, it didn't seem to struggle/hesitate to gain speed anymore.

When I got home, I only noticed my idle was high.

I'd suggest removing the negative battery cable for about fifteen to thirty seconds and possibly cleaning your throttle body and adjusting your idle speed set screw. Generally, a rev searching engine will be caused by the fast idle air valve, but the 4G37 doesn't have a FIAV.

_________________
DSM: Defeating the purpose of financial management since 1989.

Contact:
CaffeineTripp AIM/MSN/Y!M
7634649788 SMS
On my way to ASE Certification.

Sounds like your maf isn't plugged in. That or its bad.